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<\/a>\nMerci pour ton invitation, Enrico. Nous aurions \u00e9t\u00e9 heureux de te voir\u00a0! Cela n\u2019a pas \u00e9t\u00e9 possible, j\u2019esp\u00e8re qu\u2019il y aura bient\u00f4t une autre occasion.
\n Thank you for your invitation, Enrico. We would have been happy to see you! This has not been possible, I hope there will soon be an other opportunity.
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Nous sommes rentr\u00e9s le 9 octobre, fatigu\u00e9s par tant de kilom\u00e8tres, de gens, de voitures, de bruits. Mais aussi par tant de calme, ici, l\u00e0 ou encore l\u00e0. Et par tant d\u2019impressions diff\u00e9rentes jour apr\u00e8s jour. Samedi 28 septembre, apr\u00e8s une bonne premi\u00e8re nuit pass\u00e9e \u00e0 Altamura, nous partons visiter la capitale europ\u00e9enne 2019 de la culture, Matera. Les prix des chambres \u00e9tant presque six fois plus \u00e9lev\u00e9s que d\u2019habitude, nous n\u2019avons pas dormi \u00e0 Matera. La vieille ville semble construite dans une cuvette, il s\u2019agit en r\u00e9alit\u00e9 d\u2019une gorge dans laquelle on descend lentement. \u00ab\u00a0Matera est c\u00e9l\u00e8bre pour ses habitats troglodytiques (les Sassi di Matera<\/em>, \u201cpierres de Matera\u201d)\u00a0\u00bb, nous pr\u00e9cise wikip\u00e9dia. Nous visitons la reconstitution d\u2019un habitat o\u00f9 l\u2019on voit bien l\u2019entassement des humains et des animaux et o\u00f9 la responsable nous fait \u00e9couter le commentaire en fran\u00e7ais, merci \u00e0 elle. En 1953, les derniers habitants ont \u00e9t\u00e9 expuls\u00e9s pour des raisons d\u2019hygi\u00e8ne, Matera \u00e9tait \u00ab\u00a0la honte de l\u2019Italie\u00a0\u00bb\u00a0; mais, depuis, les anciens quartiers les plus mis\u00e9rables sont devenus les plus attractifs. En 1993 l\u2019Unesco inscrit les sassi<\/em> dans la liste du patrimoine mondial et ces lieux ont \u00e9t\u00e9 depuis r\u00e9investis peu \u00e0 peu. Il fait trop beau, trop chaud, il y a foule. Les voitures se faufilent difficilement dans les rues \u00e9troites. L\u2019habitat est dense, les maisons sont r\u00e9ellement enchev\u00eatr\u00e9es les unes dans les autres. C\u2019est ce qui fait une bonne partie de leur charme. Les travaux en l\u2019honneur de cette ann\u00e9e prestigieuse n\u2019ont pas pu \u00eatre termin\u00e9s partout, mais les \u0153uvres de Salvador Dali sont bien l\u00e0, install\u00e9es jusqu\u2019au 30 novembre. Vous pouvez passer la t\u00eate dans l\u2019anneau de la montre molle. Apr\u00e8s de longues heures de balade, nous quittons la ville et explorons les environs\u00a0: nous trouvons enfin un mauvais chemin pour aller voir l\u2019\u00e9glise troglodytique. De l\u00e0, nous voyons aussi l\u2019envers de Matera. le papillon un invit\u00e9 inattendu - the butterfly an unexpected guest<\/p><\/div>\n Le dimanche, nous allons voir le ch\u00e2teau de Castel del Monte – qui a servi de mod\u00e8le pour le tournage du film \u00ab\u00a0le nom de la rose\u00a0\u00bb. Pr\u00e8s de Calascio, un village porte le m\u00eame nom. La route est de qualit\u00e9 moyenne, et comme les bandes m\u00e9dianes sont continues le plus souvent, les voitures nous d\u00e9passent m\u00eame quand c\u2019est interdit, il faut s\u2019y habituer. Comme \u00e0 Rocca Calascio, on voit le ch\u00e2teau de fort loin. Il est tr\u00e8s blanc, signe de sa r\u00e9habilitation. Sans doute \u00e9tait-il tr\u00e8s visible autrefois. Nous avons pris l\u2019habitude de voir des murailles grises, mais \u00e0 l\u2019\u00e9poque m\u00e9di\u00e9vale tout \u00e9tait possible. Peut-\u00eatre m\u00eame \u00e9taient-elles peintes de couleurs vives. Surprise\u00a0: la route est interdite aux voitures, elles doivent se garer assez loin du ch\u00e2teau. On y acc\u00e8de par des navettes qui passent toutes les dix minutes. C\u2019est qu\u2019il y a un monde fou\u00a0! Alors il y a d\u2019immenses parkings, et nous d\u00e9couvrons que les gens ne viennent pas tous pour visiter le ch\u00e2teau\u00a0: certains utilisent les barbecues mis \u00e0 disposition pour cuire leurs grillades et ils passent la journ\u00e9e l\u00e0 \u00e0 manger et \u00e0 flaner. Apr\u00e8s avoir pay\u00e9 cinq euros le droit de garer la voiture\u00a0! On paye aussi la navette et ensuite on paye le droit d\u2019entr\u00e9e. Heureusement que le trajet est court car on est entass\u00e9s debout. Apr\u00e8s toutes ces mis\u00e8res, nous voil\u00e0 enfin sur place. Le ch\u00e2teau est octogonal et flanqu\u00e9 de huit tours, octogonales elles aussi. On en visite deux niveaux. L\u2019influence de Fr\u00e9d\u00e9ric II, de Souabe-Franconie, se fait encore sentir ici. De retour \u00e0 Altamura, nous ne tardons pas \u00e0 retourner dans la vieille ville\u00a0: j\u2019ai photographi\u00e9 les parapluies de nuit, je voudrais faire d\u2019autres prises de vue. Nous faisons expr\u00e8s de nous perdre dans les ruelles. Sur le plan de la ville, on voit partout des \u00ab\u00a0claustro\u00a0\u00bb qui semblent \u00eatre de toutes petites places. Nous arrivons sans l\u2019avoir cherch\u00e9 \u00e0 l\u2019entr\u00e9e d\u2019un mus\u00e9e en l\u2019honneur de l\u2019homme d\u2019Altamura. Il s\u2019agit d\u2019un tr\u00e9sor inestimable, le squelette entier d\u2019un Homo neanderthalensis d\u00e9couvert dans une grotte en 1993. Une vid\u00e9o nous montre la lente progression d\u2019un sp\u00e9l\u00e9o qui d\u00e9couvre des ossements calcifi\u00e9s, et enfin ce squelette fort \u00e9trange, qui a \u00e9t\u00e9 lui aussi recouvert de calcite au fil des mill\u00e9naires. En le d\u00e9pla\u00e7ant, on aurait tout bris\u00e9\u00a0: les chercheurs l\u2019ont donc laiss\u00e9 en place, pr\u00e9levant r\u00e9cemment, en 2015, une omoplate qui a permis de dater ce fossile par l\u2019analyse de son ADN. Wikip\u00e9dia nous en dit plus<\/a>\u00a0: En anglais<\/a> \u00c0 l\u2019heure de la faim, nous choisissons le menu d\u00e9gustation d\u2019une \u00e9choppe de vin\u00a0: une jeune femme tr\u00e8s agr\u00e9able nous sert un repas \u00e0 base de pain, charcuterie et fromage, et nous lui achetons trois bouteilles de vin. Lundi 30 septembre, nous quittons \u00e0 regret Altamura et cherchons \u00e0 suivre la Via Appia, ce qui n\u2019est pas si facile. Nous arrivons enfin, pr\u00e8s de B\u00e9n\u00e9vent, \u00e0 \u00ab\u00a0la casa di pap\u00e0\u00a0\u00bb, o\u00f9 une dame tr\u00e8s gentille nous re\u00e7oit. Elle pr\u00e9pare les vendanges de demain et elle est tr\u00e8s occup\u00e9e\u00a0! Elle nous sugg\u00e8re d\u2019aller manger \u00e0 Telese Terme, une ville thermale, o\u00f9 Paul rep\u00e8re \u00ab\u00a0l\u2019Osteria Santo Stefano\u00a0\u00bb, qui est la casa del baccala, la maison de la morue. Nous mangeons \u00e0 c\u00f4t\u00e9 d\u2019une famille dont les deux petits gar\u00e7ons ont les yeux riv\u00e9s chacun sur son t\u00e9l\u00e9phone. Je passe un bon moment \u00e0 les regarder avec ahurissement. Certes, les parents n\u2019ont pas \u00e0 les surveiller, leur soir\u00e9e au restaurant ne sera pas g\u00e2ch\u00e9 par les caprices des petits\u00a0! Mais je me demande comment \u00e7a se passe, apr\u00e8s, comment ces enfants r\u00e9ussissent \u00e0 s\u2019endormir, s\u2019ils y arrivent\u00a0! Le plus petit rejoint son fr\u00e8re, regarde l\u2019autre \u00e9cran, et manifeste son enthousiasme par des mouvements spasmodiques, en levant les bras et en agitant fr\u00e9n\u00e9tiquement les mains. Je me demande s\u2019il ne vaudrait pas mieux faire comme cette autre famille, \u00e0 Guardiagrele, o\u00f9 on offre des jouets aux gar\u00e7ons qui prennent la salle du restaurant comme terrain de jeu sous les yeux de la fillette et d\u2019une maman. Le lendemain, nous passons une journ\u00e9e assez calme, nous d\u00e9couvrons le lac de Telese Terme et le village de San Lupo, o\u00f9, l\u00e0 comme ailleurs, les gens n\u2019ont aucune balade \u00e0 proposer. Pourtant la vieille cit\u00e9 est magnifique ! Nous passons notre deuxi\u00e8me nuit \u00e0 San Lorenzo Maggiore avant de commencer notre long retour. Merci pour ton invitation, Enrico. Nous aurions \u00e9t\u00e9 heureux de te voir\u00a0! Cela n\u2019a pas \u00e9t\u00e9 possible, j\u2019esp\u00e8re qu\u2019il y aura bient\u00f4t une autre occasion. Thank you for your invitation, Enrico. We would have been happy to see you! … Continuer la lecture
\n We returned on October 9, tired by so many miles, people, cars, noises. But also by so much calm, here, there or there. And by so many different impressions day after day.
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\n Saturday, September 28, after a good first night spent in Altamura, we leave to visit the 2019 European Capital of Culture, Matera. Room prices are almost six times higher than usual, so we did not sleep in Matera.<\/strong>
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\n The old city seems to be built in a basin, it is actually a gorge in which we go down slowly. \u00ab\u00a0Matera is famous for its cave dwellings (the Sassi di Matera<\/em>, \u201cMatera stones\u201d)\u00a0\u00bb, wikipedia says. We visit the reconstruction of a habitat where we can see the crowding of humans and animals and where the responsible makes us listen to the commentary in French, thank you to her. In 1953, the last inhabitants were expelled for reasons of hygiene, Matera was \u00ab\u00a0the shame of Italy\u00a0\u00bb\u00a0; but since then, the most miserable old neighborhoods have become the most attractive. In 1993 UNESCO inscribed Sassi in the World Heritage list and these places have since been reinvested little by little.
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\n The weather is too beautiful, too hot, there is a crowd. Cars sneak around the narrow streets with difficulty.<\/strong>
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\n The habitat is dense, the houses are really entangled in each other. That’s what makes a lot of their charm.<\/strong>
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\nThe works in honor of this prestigious year could not be completed everywhere, but the works of Salvador Dali are well there, installed until November 30th. You can put your head in the ring of the soft watch.<\/strong>
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\nAfter long hours of walking, we leave the city and explore the area: we finally find a bad way to see the troglodyte church. From there, we also see the back of Matera.<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/a><\/a>
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\nNous rentrons t\u00f4t \u00e0 Altamura pour profiter d\u2019une chambre agr\u00e9able et de la vieille ville, tr\u00e8s plaisante.
\n We return early to Altamura to enjoy a nice room and the old town, very pleasant.<\/strong><\/p>\n
\nOn Sunday, we visit the castle of Castel del Monte – which served as a model for the shooting of the movie \u00ab\u00a0le nom de la rose\u00a0\u00bb. Near Calascio, a village bears the same name.<\/strong>
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\n The road is of average quality, and as the median bands are continuous most often, the cars exceed us even when it is forbidden, it is necessary to get used to it.<\/strong>
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\n We see the castle from far away as we did at Rocca Calascio. It is very white, a sign of its rehabilitation. No doubt it was very visible formerly. We used to see gray walls, but in medieval times everything was possible. Perhaps even they were painted in bright colors.
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\n Surprise: the road is closed to cars, they must park far enough from the castle. It is accessed by shuttles that pass every ten minutes. There is a crazy world! Then there are huge car parks, and we discover that people do not all come to visit the castle: some use barbecues made available to cook their grill and they spend the day there to eat and stroll. After paying five euros the right to park the car!
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\n We also pay the shuttle and then we pay the entrance fee. Fortunately, the journey is short because we are piled standing up.<\/strong>
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\n After all these miseries, we are finally here. The castle is octagonal and flanked by eight octagonal too towers. We visit two levels. The influence of Frederick II, of Swabia-Franconia, is still felt here.<\/strong>
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\n Back to Altamura, we soon return to the old town: I photographed the umbrellas at night, I would like to make other shots.<\/strong>
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\n We deliberately lose ourselves in the alleys. On the map of the city, we see everywhere \u00ab\u00a0claustro\u00a0\u00bb that maybe are very small places.<\/strong>
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\n We arrive without having looked for it at the entrance of a museum in honor of the man of Altamura. This is an inestimable treasure, the whole skeleton of a Homo neanderthalensis discovered in a cave in 1993. A video shows us the slow progression of a caver who discovers calcified bones, and finally this very strange skeleton, which has also been covered with calcite over the millennia. By moving it, it would have been all broken: the researchers have left it in place, recently taking, in 2015, a scapula that has made it possible to date this fossil by analyzing its DNA.
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\nWikipedia tells us more<\/a>:
\n\u00ab\u00a0L\u2019Homme d’Altamura est le squelette n\u00e9andertalien le plus complet d\u00e9couvert \u00e0 ce jour dans le monde.
\n(\u2026) En 2015, la datation des os et de ces min\u00e9raux a montr\u00e9 que le squelette est \u00e2g\u00e9 entre 130\u00a0000 et 182\u00a0000 ans.\u00a0\u00bb
\n\u00ab\u00a0The Man of Altamura is the most complete Neanderthal skeleton discovered to date in the world.<\/strong>
\n(…) In 2015, the dating of bones and minerals showed that the skeleton is between 130,000 and 182,000 years old.\u00a0\u00bb<\/strong><\/p>\n
\n In English<\/a><\/strong>
\nUne reconstitution d\u2019un fragment de la grotte et de son squelette nous permet d\u2019examiner ces restes \u00e9tonnants et de les photographier.
\nA reconstruction of a fragment of the cave and its skeleton allows us to examine these amazing remains and photograph them.
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\n At the time of hunger, we choose the tasting menu of a wine shop: a very nice young woman serves us a meal based on bread, cold meats and cheese, and we buy her three bottles of wine.<\/strong>
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\nPotenza, Ruoti, Baragiano, Castelgrande o\u00f9 le GPS est perdu sur des routes neuves qu\u2019il ne conna\u00eet pas, halte \u00e0 Valico di Monte Carruozo \u00e0 1228 m\u00e8tres, o\u00f9 nous faisons quelques pas. Un vieux berger m\u00e8ne ses jolies vaches\u00a0: il est tr\u00e8s souriant, tout heureux d\u2019\u00e9changer quelques mots. Il a une ni\u00e8ce qui travaille \u00e0 Lyon.<\/a>
\n On Monday, September 30, we leave Altamura reluctantly and try to follow Via Appia, which is not so easy.<\/strong>
\n Potenza, Ruoti, Baragiano, Castelgrande where the GPS is lost on new roads it does not know, stop at Valico di Monte Carruozo at 1228 meters, where we take a few steps. An old shepherd leads his pretty cows: he is very smiling, happy to exchange a few words. He has a niece who works in Lyon.
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\n Finally, near Benevento, we arrive at \u00ab\u00a0la casa di pap\u00e0\u00a0\u00bb, where a very kind lady receives us. She is preparing the harvest of tomorrow and she is very busy! She suggests eating at Telese Terme, a spa town, where Paul spots \u00ab\u00a0Osteria Santo Stefano\u00a0\u00bb, which is la Casa del Baccala, the cod house.
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\nWe eat next to a family whose two little sons are watching each other on his phone. I have a good time watching them with bewilderment. Of course, the parents do not have to watch them, their evening in the restaurant will not be spoiled by the whims of the little ones! But I wonder how it goes, after, how these children manage to fall asleep, if they succeed in sleeping! The smallest joins his brother, watches the other screen, and manifests his enthusiasm by spasmodic movements, raising his arms and frantically waving his hands. I wonder if it would not be better to do like this other family, at Guardiagrele, where they offer toys to boys who consider the restaurant room as a playground in front of the girl and a mother.
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\n The next day we spend a fairly quiet day, we discover the lake of Telese Terme and the village of San Lupo, where, there as elsewhere, people have no ride to propose. Yet the old city is beautiful!
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\n We spend our second night in San Lorenzo Maggiore before starting our long return.<\/strong><\/a>
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