{"id":5346,"date":"2019-10-08T06:08:58","date_gmt":"2019-10-08T06:08:58","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.pasassezdetemps.com\/?p=5346"},"modified":"2019-10-08T06:08:58","modified_gmt":"2019-10-08T06:08:58","slug":"le-molise-nexiste-pas","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.pasassezdetemps.com\/?p=5346","title":{"rendered":"Le Molise n’existe pas"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"\"<\/a> Il nous fallait un motif puissant pour quitter \u00ab\u00a0el campo imperatore\u00a0\u00bb<\/em>\u00a0: le ch\u00e2teau de Rocca Calascio, qui a servi au tournage de deux films c\u00e9l\u00e8bres. \u00ab\u00a0Ladyhawk\u00a0\u00bb est le r\u00e9cit d\u2019une mal\u00e9diction jet\u00e9e sur un couple d\u2019amoureux, la femme est faucon pendant le jour et l\u2019homme loup pendant la nuit, une belle histoire fantastique. \u00ab\u00a0Le nom de la rose\u00a0\u00bb est sans doute bien plus connu, dans ce film aussi le ch\u00e2teau de Rocca Calascio appara\u00eet. Pour \u00ab\u00a0le nom de la rose\u00a0\u00bb, le Castel del Monte a \u00e9t\u00e9 utilis\u00e9 aussi. Et c\u2019est le ch\u00e2teau de Torrechiara qui a servi aussi au tournage de \u00ab\u00a0Ladyhawk\u00a0\u00bb.
\nWe needed a powerful motivation to leave \u00ab\u00a0el campo imperatore\u00a0\u00bb<\/em>\u00a0: the castle of Rocca Calascio, which was used to make two famous movies. \u00ab\u00a0Ladyhawk\u00a0\u00bb is the story of two lovers under a curse, the woman is a hawk during the day and the man is a wolf during the night, a beautiful fantasy story. \u00ab\u00a0Le nom de la rose\u00a0\u00bb is maybe more renowned, in this movie the castle of Rocca Calascio appears also. For \u00ab\u00a0Le nom de la rose\u00a0\u00bb, the Castel del Monte was used too. Torrechiara Castle was also used for the filming of Ladyhawk.
\n\"\"<\/a>
\n<\/strong><\/p>\n

Nous sommes tr\u00e8s surpris de reconna\u00eetre de tr\u00e8s loin la silhouette de Rocca Calascio. Les routes ne sont pas de bonne qualit\u00e9, nous n\u2019allons pas tr\u00e8s vite. Nous laissons la voiture dans la mont\u00e9e vers le village, il y a de petits parkings ici ou l\u00e0, ni Paul ni moi n\u2019aimons circuler en voiture sur des montagnes trop escarp\u00e9es.
\nWe are very surprised to recognize the silhouette of Rocca Calascio from a distance. The roads are not good, we are not going very fast. We leave the car in the climb to the village, there are small car parks here and there, neither Paul nor I like to drive in mountains that are too steep.<\/strong>
\n\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

L\u2019\u00e9glise o\u00f9 s\u2019est mari\u00e9 le fr\u00e8re de Maxime de Teramo. Mais c\u2019\u00e9tait une autre \u00e9poque, quand personne ne savait que Rocca Calascio existe.
\nThe church where Maxime’s brother from Teramo married. But it was another time, when no one knew that Rocca Calascio existed.<\/strong>
\n\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
\n\"\"<\/a>
\n\"\"<\/a>
\n\"\"<\/a>
\nLe chat qui veut se mettre \u00e0 l\u2019abri de la pluie
\nThe cat who wants to shelter from the rain<\/strong>
\n\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Apr\u00e8s notre visite nous nous h\u00e2tons vers la voiture o\u00f9 nous arrivons quand la pluie devient plus forte. Il reste plus d\u2019une heure de route avant d\u2019arriver \u00e0 Guardiagrele.
\nAfter our visit we hurry to the car where we arrive when the rain gets stronger. We have to drive more than an hour before arriving at Guardiagrele.<\/strong>
\n\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Mardi 24 septembre, apr\u00e8s que j\u2019ai publi\u00e9 ma chronique hebdomadaire, nous allons d\u2019abord \u00e0 Fara San Martino voir la source, puis nous prenons la route du \u00ab\u00a0gole di San Martino\u00a0\u00bb<\/em> (col de San Martino). Nous commen\u00e7ons la balade vers le col, mais notre cheminement est \u00ab\u00a0chiuse per caduta massi\u00a0\u00bb<\/em>, ferm\u00e9 pour cause de chutes de pierres. Bien \u00e9videmment je commence \u00e0 me demander si je vais passer outre \u00e0 l\u2019interdiction et aux barri\u00e8res assez malmen\u00e9es pour que je puisse me faufiler. Mais l\u2019arriv\u00e9e d\u2019une voiture de police me fait changer d\u2019avis.
\nTuesday, September 24, after I published my weekly column, we first go to Fara San Martino to see the spring, then we take the road to the \u00ab\u00a0gole di San Martino\u00a0\u00bb<\/em> (San Martino Pass). We start the ride to the pass, but our path is \u00ab\u00a0chiuse per caduta massi\u00a0\u00bb<\/em>, closed because of falling rocks. Of course, I’m starting to wonder if I’m going to override the prohibition and the pretty badly manageable barriers so that I can sneak into it. But the arrival of a police car makes me change my mind.<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>

sp\u00e9cial voiture tordue - special twisted car<\/p><\/div>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
\n\"\"<\/a>
\nUne polici\u00e8re tr\u00e8s aimable nous donne quelques informations pour une autre balade, tout en pr\u00e9cisant \u00ab\u00a0sale sale\u00a0\u00bb<\/em>, \u00e7a monte \u00e7a monte. Elle nous pr\u00e9cise que si la balade est interdite ici, c\u2019est parce qu\u2019une femme a \u00e9t\u00e9 tu\u00e9e en juillet par la chute de pierres.
\n A very friendly police officer woman gives us some information for another ride, specifying \u00ab\u00a0sale sale\u00a0\u00bb<\/em>, it goes up it goes up. She tells us that the walk is forbidden here because a woman was killed in July by falling rocks.
\n\"\"<\/a>
\n<\/strong><\/p>\n

Mais pourquoi cette interdiction n\u2019appara\u00eet-elle pas tout en bas, l\u00e0 o\u00f9 les promeneurs laissent les voitures\u00a0?
\n But why does not this prohibition appear at the very bottom, where walkers leave cars?
\n\"\"<\/a>
\n<\/strong><\/p>\n

Nous allons alors \u00e0 Lama Dei Peligni o\u00f9 se tient un march\u00e9. Il y a m\u00eame un vendeur d\u2019accessoires pour les r\u00e9coltes d\u2019huile d\u2019olive, des outils, des r\u00e9cipients de toutes les dimensions. Nous achetons de quoi compl\u00e9ter notre pique-nique et allons manger dans les hauteurs, au d\u00e9part de la balade indiqu\u00e9e. Comme nous avions vu en Calabre, des rues sont trac\u00e9es horizontalement, parall\u00e8les, assez longues, et elles sont reli\u00e9es par de courts passages plus ou moins raides\u00a0: parfois ce sont m\u00eame des escaliers\u00a0!
\n Then we go to Lama Dei Peligni where there is a market. There is even a seller of accessories for harvesting olive oil, tools, containers of all sizes. We buy enough to complete our picnic and go eat in the heights, at the start of the indicated ride. As we had seen in Calabria, streets are drawn horizontally, parallel, rather long, and they are connected by short passages more or less steep: sometimes there are even stairs!
\n\"\"<\/a>
\n<\/strong><\/p>\n

Apr\u00e8s notre pique-nique, nous suivons pendant un petit moment la balade balis\u00e9e\u00a0: \u00ab\u00a0sale sale\u00a0\u00bb<\/em>, \u00e7a monte \u00e7a monte.
\n After our picnic, we follow for a while the marked walk: \u00ab\u00a0sale sale\u00a0\u00bb<\/em>, it goes up it goes up.
\n\"\"<\/a>
\n<\/strong><\/p>\n

Nous partons ensuite \u00e0 Pennapiedimonte, d\u2019o\u00f9 on a une vue magnifique sur les environs, mais o\u00f9 les rues sont si \u00e9troites que les voitures doivent man\u0153uvrer pour passer les \u00e9pingles \u00e0 cheveux.
\n We leave then to Pennapiedimonte, from where we have a magnificent view of the surroundings, but where the streets are so narrow that the cars must maneuver to pass the hairpins.<\/strong>
\n\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>

Pennapiedimonte<\/p><\/div>\n

\"\"<\/a>
\nLe mercredi, c\u2019est parti pour Bocca di Valle et la cascade San Giovanni. Une mont\u00e9e progressive, des passages un peu plus difficiles (il faut s\u2019aider des mains), un chemin tr\u00e8s bien balis\u00e9. Nous voyons quelques autres marcheurs, au total pas plus de douze personnes aujourd\u2019hui pour aller voir la cascade. Apr\u00e8s nous, il sera sans doute trop tard pour prendre le d\u00e9part.
\n On Wednesday, we leave for Bocca di Valle and San Giovanni waterfall. A gradual climb, passages a little more difficult (it is necessary to use hands), a very well marked path. We see some other walkers, in total not more than twelve people today to see the waterfall. After us, it will probably be too late to start.
\n\"\"<\/a>
\n<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
\nNous reprenons des forces et allons visiter Pretoro, encore un gros village perch\u00e9. Un peu partout des maisons semblent am\u00e9nag\u00e9es pour proposer des attractions aux visiteurs, sur le th\u00e8me du loup ou de la bi\u00e8re ou\u2026
\nWe gain strength and go to visit Pretoro, another big hilltop village. Houses everywhere seem to be designed to offer attractions to visitors, on the theme of the wolf or the beer or …
\n\"\"<\/a>
\n<\/strong>
\nIl y a de bonnes id\u00e9es, des escaliers, et les lieux am\u00e9nag\u00e9s sont ferm\u00e9es.
\n There are good ideas, stairs, and landscaped areas are closed.<\/strong>
\n\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Fini de courir, il faut penser au pique-nique. Un myst\u00e8re\u00a0: Paul demande un hectogramme de jambon \u00e0 la vendeuse d\u2019un magasin. Elle pr\u00e9pare les tranches comme on fait en Italie, en les disposant les unes \u00e0 c\u00f4t\u00e9 des autres, se chevauchant, elle en installe dix sur sa feuille\u2026 Et quand elle p\u00e8se cela, il y en a exactement cent grammes, pas un de plus, pas un de moins. Pourtant, un jambon n\u2019a pas une forme r\u00e9guli\u00e8re, il faudrait un hasard extraordinaire pour obtenir un tel r\u00e9sultat, la serveuse a-t-elle un truc\u00a0?
\n No more running, we have to think of the picnic. A mystery: Paul asks a hectogram of ham to the shop assistant. She prepares the slices as they do in Italy, placing them next to each other, overlapping, she installs ten on her sheet … And when she weighs that, there is exactly one hundred grams, not one more, not one less. However, a ham does not have a regular shape, it would need an extraordinary chance to obtain such a result, the waitress has something?<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Jeudi 26, nous prenons la route de Capracotta (qui signifie ch\u00e8vre cuite, et nous ignorons toujours pourquoi cette ville de montagne s\u2019appelle Ch\u00e8vre Cuite). L\u2019ami L\u00e9onardo est originaire de l\u00e0, il en a parl\u00e9 \u00e0 Paul, il fallait bien que nous y passions\u00a0! Une bien jolie ville un peu endormie, il suffit de ne pas vouloir acheter de timbres poste. La poste ne s\u2019occupe plus que d\u2019op\u00e9rations financi\u00e8res, et la carte postale envoy\u00e9 \u00e0 l\u2019ami L\u00e9o nous aura demand\u00e9 une attrente interminable au milieu des vieilles dames qui viennent toucher une pension de mis\u00e8re.
\nThursday 26, we begin our trip to Capracotta (which means cooked goat, and we still do not know why this mountain town is called Ch\u00e8vre Cuite). The friend L\u00e9onardo is from there, he spoke to Paul, we had to go there! A very pretty city a little sleepy, just do not want to buy stamps. The post office is now occupied only with financial transactions, and the postcard sent to the friend L\u00e9o has asked us for an endless attraction among the old ladies who come to receive a too little pension.
\n\"\"<\/a>
\n<\/strong><\/p>\n

Nous reprenons la route jusqu\u2019\u00e0 Pescolanciano o\u00f9 nous trouvons par hasard un sentier qui nous permet de faire quelques pas. Plus tard nous terminons l\u2019\u00e9tape \u00e0 Campobasso.
\n We drive to Pescolanciano where we find by chance a nice path and we walk a few steps. Later we finish the stage in Campobasso.
\n\"\"<\/a>
\n<\/strong><\/p>\n

\u00c0 briser seulement en cas d’urgence
\nTo break only in case of emergency<\/strong>
\n\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Vendredi 27, nous croyons partir pour un trajet assez long, mais bient\u00f4t la silhouette de Lucera avec une tour gigantesque nous fait quitter la voie rapide. Apr\u00e8s avoir err\u00e9 au jug\u00e9 dans de vieilles ruelles \u00e9troites, nous nous garons aupr\u00e8s du ch\u00e2teau, et nous profitons d\u2019un large panorama sur les environs.
\nFriday 27, we think we’re going for a long drive, but soon Lucera’s silhouette with a gigantic tower makes us leave the expressway. After wandering in the narrow streets, we park near the castle and enjoy a wide panorama of the surroundings.
\n\"\"<\/a>
\n<\/strong><\/p>\n

Une vid\u00e9o int\u00e9ressante raconte comment \u00e9tait install\u00e9e toute une ville, les quartiers militaires, les r\u00e9serves d\u2019armes\u2026 L\u2019image de synth\u00e8se a \u00e9t\u00e9 mise \u00e0 contribution avec de bons r\u00e9sultats. Mais en me promenant sur internet, je d\u00e9couvre une histoire terrible, des guerres, des d\u00e9portations, des gens devenus esclaves\u2026
\nAn interesting video tells how a whole city<\/strong> was installed, the military districts, the reserves of weapons … The computer image was put to contribution with good results. But while watching on the internet, I discover a terrible story, wars, deportations, people become slaves …
\n\"\"<\/a>
\n<\/strong><\/p>\n

Nous quittons le ch\u00e2teau pour visiter l\u2019amphith\u00e9\u00e2tre et aussi d\u00e9ambuler dans les vieilles rues \u00e9troites.
\n We leave the castle to visit the amphitheater and also wander in the old narrow streets.
\n\"\"<\/a>
\n<\/strong><\/p>\n

C\u2019est la premi\u00e8re fois aujourd\u2019hui que nous trouvons des ordures dispers\u00e9es un peu partout. Le plus souvent dans des sacs pos\u00e9s au bord des routes. Les routes elles-m\u00eames sont parfois neuves, parfois en tr\u00e8s mauvais \u00e9tat. C\u2019est pour cela sans doute que sur un axe \u00e0 deux fois deux voies, je conduis pendant dix kilom\u00e8tres derri\u00e8re un bus qui roule en pleine gauche (le meilleur c\u00f4t\u00e9).
\n This is the first time today we find garbage scattered everywhere. Most often in bags placed along roadsides. The roads themselves are sometimes new, sometimes in very bad condition. This is probably why on an axis twice twice, I drive for ten kilometers behind a bus that runs in the left (the best side).
\n\"\"<\/a>
\n<\/strong><\/p>\n

Plus tard, nous passons par Gravina-in-Puglia mais nous ne trouvons pas les vestiges dont parle Paolo Rumiz quand il raconte ses p\u00e9r\u00e9grinations. Enfin, nous atteignons notre g\u00eete \u00e0 Altamura. Nous comprenons enfin qui est Fr\u00e9d\u00e9ric II di \u00ab\u00a0sveva\u00a0\u00bb<\/em>\u00a0: le Souabe. Il faut dire que nous mangeons \u00e0 la Trattoria Federico II di Svevia<\/em>.
\n Later, we pass by Gravina-in-Puglia but we do not find the vestiges of which\u00a0 Paolo Rumiz speaks<\/strong> when he tells his peregrinations. Finally, we reach our B&B in Altamura. We finally understand who is Frederick II di \u00ab\u00a0sveva\u00a0\u00bb<\/em>: Swabia. It must be said that we eat at the Trattoria Federico II di Svevia.<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n

Mais\u2026 et le titre de cette chronique\u00a0? Le Molise est une r\u00e9gion dont le slogan est \u00ab\u00a0le Molise n\u2019existe pas\u00a0\u00bb. M\u00eame les Italiens ne savent pas le situer. Si vous voulez en savoir plus suivez ce lien<\/a>. \u00a0Il est bord\u00e9 par les Abruzzes, le Latium, la Campagnie et les Pouilles.
\n But … and the title of this column? Molise is a region whose motto is \u00ab\u00a0Molise does not exist\u00a0\u00bb. Even Italians do not know how to situate it. If you want to know more, click on this link<\/a>. It’s in French. \u00a0Molise is bordered by Abruzzo, Lazio, Campania and Apulia.
\n<\/strong><\/p>\n

\u00c0 l\u2019heure o\u00f9 nous mettons sous presse, nous apprenons que l\u2019interview de S\u00e9b dans son chamion a \u00e9t\u00e9 publi\u00e9e, cliquer sur ce lien<\/a>.
\nAs we go to press, we learn that the interview of Seb in his chamion has been published, click on this link<\/a>. Only for French speakers.
\n<\/strong><\/p>\n

Nous arrivons \u00e0 Altamura vendredi 27 septembre. Publication mardi 8 octobre.<\/span><\/em>
\nWe arrive in Altamura on Friday, September 27th. Publication Tuesday, October 8.<\/span><\/em>
\n\"\"<\/a>
\n<\/strong><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Il nous fallait un motif puissant pour quitter \u00ab\u00a0el campo imperatore\u00a0\u00bb\u00a0: le ch\u00e2teau de Rocca Calascio, qui a servi au tournage de deux films c\u00e9l\u00e8bres. \u00ab\u00a0Ladyhawk\u00a0\u00bb est le r\u00e9cit d\u2019une mal\u00e9diction jet\u00e9e sur un couple d\u2019amoureux, la femme est faucon … Continuer la lecture →<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-5346","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-non-classe"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.pasassezdetemps.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5346"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.pasassezdetemps.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.pasassezdetemps.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.pasassezdetemps.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.pasassezdetemps.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=5346"}],"version-history":[{"count":27,"href":"https:\/\/www.pasassezdetemps.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5346\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":5408,"href":"https:\/\/www.pasassezdetemps.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5346\/revisions\/5408"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.pasassezdetemps.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=5346"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.pasassezdetemps.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=5346"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.pasassezdetemps.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=5346"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}